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Oct
23
2010
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Posted 1 years 122 days ago ago by Rhapsody  2 Comments
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Guide to Becoming a Biker
Training
Get On
This is an initiative set up by motorbike manufacturers to encourage new people to start biking. Check out their website to find the nearest participating training school and you can have an hour’s free tuition on a bike with no strings attached. Its a great way to check out if the training school is any good and it's comforting to know that it will need to be of a good enough standard to be included in the scheme in the first place. Its a very good way to get your first taste of biking without the outlay or pressure of the CBT.
CBT
Compulsory Basic Training. You will need to complete this mandatory training to be allowed out on the road with L Plates. It should cover basic roadcraft, train you how to tackle things like junctions and roundabouts and the according position you should occupy on the road. It also covers some theory like the benefits of hi-vis clothing. By the end you will have ridden for 2 hours on the road with the instructor and show that you can safely perform an emergency stop and U-turn. It can be completed on a moped (the easy way) or a geared 125cc and either will entitle you to get your L Plates. The instructors won’t take you out onto the road until they feel you’re ready and this may mean that they feel you aren’t of a standard to finish in one day. Don’t stress about this, just book to come back and complete in a further session.
DAS or A2
At this point you might want to decide whether to do DAS (if you are 21 or older), or do the standard A2 test. If you do A2 then you may well wish to buy yourself a 125cc to practice on at your leisure with your L Plates on. You can do this for 2 years before you need to renew your CBT but cannot go on motorways or carry a pillion. Its a good way to gain experience then get a couple of lessons before your test to clean up any bad habits.
If you do DAS then you will be required to complete your tests on a larger bike. You can only ride the 500cc bike with a qualified instructor present so practice will be restricted to paying for lessons unless you are lucky enough to have one as a mate who will do you freebies. This makes it a more expensive route than the A2 test. Many people say its actually easier to control the larger cc bike than a 125cc. Its heavier if you end up dropping it though. The end result is the freedom to ride a large bike unrestricted.
Passing your test
You will need to complete 3 parts to pass your test and gain your bike license. First you will need to pass the theory test consisting of multiple choice questions and a hazard perception section. The questions are slightly different to those in the car theory test. You can buy an official DVLA DVD which contains all the questions and the correct answers, and even one for the hazard perception part, although you can find free examples to practice online.
Once you have completed your theory the next part to pass is Module 1. This involves performing various manoeuvres which test bike control including an emergency stop, U-turn and figure of 8. This part of the test is cheap, but some find it tricky so if you are worried then don’t book your Mod 2 until you’ve successfully passed Mod 1.
Module 2 involves road riding with an examiner following you. You will need to prove you can ride safely on the road following the highway code and making sure you demonstrate skills like shoulder checks and correct positioning on the road. Passing module 2 will grant you your licence, either A2 or full unrestricted depending on what bike you rode on your tests.
Kit
Sliding down tarmac is not nice to the skin so its very advisable to invest in protective gear even if you hope to never have to put it to the test. Gear can be expensive so you may only want to shell out your hard cash after you’ve done the CBT and confirmed you definitely enjoyed the experience. Sadly there’s not quite the volume of gear available out there for ladies as for men, but a great way to try a full variety out in one place is to go to a large bike show like the Carol Nash show at the NEC in Birmingham, held toward the end of the year. Bargains can be had there too as show prices can be cheaper than normal. Here is what you will need and what its nice to have too if you can afford it.
Helmet
How much is your head worth? The most important part of you to protect. You can buy full face (safest) or open faced helms (if you like to eat bugs). You can also buy flip lids which are nice if you wear glasses. Not everyone thinks they are as safe as full face though for the possibility that the two parts come apart in an accident.
NEVER buy a lid (helmet) second hand. If the seller has dropped the helmet it could be damaged inside and you’d never know it and if you ever need it then it may not perform properly in a crash. Don’t set your hopes on a particular helmet because it looks pretty. Choose your helmet because it fits properly and then see if that model has colour scheme you like. Different makes suit different face shapes. Go to a gear shop and try the helmet on. Keep it on for at least 5 minutes at the risk of looking a prat in the shop. Too tight and it will cause you a headache and make your life miserable. Too loose and it won’t do its job properly in the event of a crash. The lining may give a little over time, but try and get a good fit when you buy.
Check out the government SHARP test to help you assess the safety rating of the helmet you are buying. There are cheap makes like Laser that get 5 stars and cost under £100.
Some helmets have extra features such as sun visors and antifog coating on the inside of visor. Look for one with good venting as this will help stop it misting up in wet weather.
Jacket and trousers
Your choices are primarily leathers or textiles...
Leathers
Leather has better abrasion resistance than textiles. This means thats its superior for sliding down the road in. You can buy separate jacket and trousers, or an all in one suit. You need to have leathers if you want to do a track day. Getting the right fit is important, so it doesn’t go all baggy on you as you break it in. Leather also needs caring for to keep it in good condition. However, it is not waterproof, so to protect yourself from the rain you will need to buy a waterproof over suit to wear on top when things turn inclement. You might also with to combine with a spine protector to add protection for your back.
Textiles
Waterproofing should be better than leathers. They often come with a removable quilted liner for the colder months. Look for jacket and trousers that zip together. Also, check the quality of the armour within the garment. Knox armour will do a better job than a thin bit of foam found in poorer quality jackets. If you buy a brand with Goretex then you’ll stay as dry as you can, but expect to fork out quite a lot. Check out Ebay to see if you can get some nearly new bargains where people have changed their mind about biking and decided to sell on their pristine gear.
Alternatively
For the summer you might want to try kevlar jeans or mesh jackets. Both are designed to let some airflow through, keeping you cooler on those really scorching days.
Gloves
You can buy winter or summer gloves. Keep this in mind while budgeting your expenses across the year. Winter gloves can be heavy and sweaty for the summer, but summer ones will not be warm enough for a British winter. Leave enough room in your winter pair for some silk gloves to fit underneath. These provide an inexpensive valuable extra layer of insulation you’ll be glad you have against the chill.
Boots
Racing style ones have toe sliders, touring ones tend to be more inconspicuous. Ask in the shop about how waterproof they are or check out some reviews like those found on the Ride magazine website. Make sure the fit is comfy and leave enough room for some thermal under socks for winter. If you are needing a little extra height then check out Ladystar boots. These have taller soles than usual. If they are beyond budget then you could approach a local cobbler and ask them to build up your boots in the same manner for a fraction of the cost (it just won’t look as good).
Also consider
A neck tube to cover that gap between jacket ending and helmet starting. Maybe even a balaclava for the winter. A rucksack or waist belt for carrying handy things like visor cleaning wipes. Be mindful not to pack the rucksack with items that could cause you injury in event of an accident.
Buying your first bike
125cc
This will be most people’s first bike as it’s a great to have 2 wheels to practice on in your own time before taking your test. If you choose to buy a 125 then you’ll need to decide what kind of bike would suit you best. A laid back cruiser? A comfortable sit up naked (unfaired) bike? A sporty looking machine? A touring type with big screen? An off road style one? Its all down to personal taste. Go round some dealers and sit on some bikes to find out what fits you. If you are on the short side and are worried about reaching the ground with your feet then look online for lists of bikes for shorties as this can help you find one to suit.
125s also come as 4 strokes or 2 strokes. I won’t go into the mechanics here but as a general rule... 2 strokes go much faster than 4 strokes but need careful maintenance (including burning oil as well as petrol) and an engine rebuild roughly every 10, 000 miles. 4 Strokes are slower but are easier to care for so therefore tend to be the commuter choice. 4 strokes have their power over a more even range, 2 strokes have an exciting power band and don’t like sitting in traffic much. Pick whichever will suit the kind of journeys you will be making.
If you are used to driving a car then you will find you have to rev a 125cc a lot to get it to go anywhere quickly. You’ll be changing gears a great deal to get up steep hills or to accelerate up to speed on 60mph roads. On the plus side they are nice and cheap on petrol and insurance and hold their resale value well as they are always in demand for other learners.
Big bikes (over 125cc)
I have heard a lot of people say that its easier to ride a big bike than a 125cc. It’ll be heavier if you drop it, but easier for things like less gear changes and riding smoothly. There is a huge choice of big bikes out there. Go and sit on some, read reviews and visit bike specific forums to help you get the low down on each model you’re considering buying. Think of the type of journeys you will be making. If you like the look of sportsbikes, can you handle the weight on your wrists and maybe an aching back? If you want to go touring look for large screens, fairing and places to mount luggage. If you fancy a cruiser, do you want to polish a lot of chrome or should you look for one which will take less cleaning? There’s lots consider but ultimately trust your instinct and buy the bike that you want and not what other people tell you to buy because that nearly always leads to regret and a change of bike as soon as budget allows.
If you’ve done the A2 test then you have 2 options. Buy a bike under 33bhp (thats about 250cc for modern bikes), or restrict a bigger bike. The choice for under 33bhp is limited compared to restricting, but there are some nice ones out there. You would be riding the bike to its full capacity which is fun. Fuel consumption is almost as good as a 125cc and insurance should still be cheap. If you go the restricted route then there are more bikes available although some lend themselves better to restriction than others. And when your 2 years are up and the kit comes off it will be like having a new bike.
Useful stuff
It is advisable to accumulate the following things...
Chain lube – Oil your chain every 200 to 300 miles. Wet conditions require more oiling. If you don’t do this your chain could go rusty, develop tight spots and eventually snap (nasty). A Scottoiler makes life a lot easier in this department. Do this after going for a ride as the lube penetrates better.
Rear paddock stand – Makes oiling your chain much easier as it holds the rear wheel off the ground so you can access the whole of your chain without having to wheel your bike along. You should be able to pick one up for as little as £35. Check whether it has hooks for bobbins, or if it cups the swing arms instead and get the right one.
Cleaning products – Search online for other people’s favourite products and tried and tested techniques. Eg. Microfibre cloths, 2 bucket washing technique, Mr Sheen etc.
Chain cleaner – Your chain will start to pick up dirt that will grind into the moving parts and also wear away the sprockets. So it will need cleaning from time to time. The cheapest way to do this is to use paraffin and an old toothbrush. Wipe off the paraffin after working it over with the toothbrush then lube.
Bike security – As a basic minimum get a disc lock (with the cord that goes to your handlebars so you don’t drive off with it still on). You can get alarmed versions too. If you think your bike is at risk then consider chaining it up (make sure the chain is long enough). You can fit a ground anchor in your garage. If you leave it outside a lot then put a cover on it to make it less noticeable to thieves.
Luggage – You may want one or all of the following; tank bag, panniers, rucksack, top box, kidney belt, bungee cords.
Visor cleaner – You can buy chemical sprays and cloths but I like the V2 visor cleaning kit which is simply a microfibre sponge with strong paper sheets to dry the visor once its been wiped. Great for shifting tough bugs.
The longer you ride for the more gear you’ll end up wanting. What I’ve listed above is just the basics.
And Finally...
Motorbiking is a wonderful hobby that gives you a fantastic sense of freedom and a bond with the open road. The biking community is very supportive and all the bikers I’ve met have been friendly, helpful and encouraging. So if you have that nagging thought that you might just enjoy getting on a bike, then put your nerves aside and give it a go because it’s so much fun you’ll be hooked in no time, and boring all your non-bikey friends with tales of your 2 wheeled adventures
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